Chicken Keeping Secrets

“What is the best way to kill fire ants around chickens and chicks?” ~ Judy Goodwin

Hi Judy,

Thanks for the question.

You might recall that we own a pest control company so this question is right up my husband’s alley.

Although there are numerous all natural home remedies touted across the internet and in books, understand that a large portion of our income each summer comes from people who have tried all these home remedies and still have ants.

In other words, I hope you were not looking for a solution that included sprinkling baking powder inside the ant hill.

My husband’s recommendation is Amdro Ant Block. (more…)

Feedback On Dealing With Snakes…

We had some great feedback and recommendations from last week’s newsletter regarding snakes so I wanted to pass some of it along to all of you. I hope you find it helpful…

“I live in rural southeastern Arizona. We have many, many snakes. Fortunately, we have had only a few Rattlesnakes near our house, but we have a lot of other snakes that could be dangerous to our chickens.

The best repellent that I know of is bird netting, stretched on the ground near the buildings. The snakes get very tangled up in the layers of bunched up bird netting. I check the netting at least twice a day. I carefully snip the plastic threads away from non-venomous and my husband shoots the rattlers.” ~ Joan Wakefield

“A reader in this issue asked for a “snake catching gizmo”. Here are a couple tricks us zookeepers use to catch snakes:

1. I don’t believe there are any snakes that can eat chicken eggs in Maryland…eating eggs is a specialized adaptation found in just a few snakes. Since the snakes may be in the hen house (especially if they are in the nest) more because they want the heat from the hens than anything else, provide a source of heat in a hiding location (a heating pad (on low) under an overturned rubbermaid tub with a couple entrances at ground level) nearby but out of the hen house, or at least out of the way, and you will get the benefit of the mouse eaters without them hanging out… but if they are used to the house, start in or very close and once they use the heat, move it further away in increments. Please be aware of fire hazards.

2. A snake trap that catches them alive is easy to make. Get a length of PVC pipe that is at least 4 inches in diameter…depending on size of snake…and at least as long as the snake you want to catch. Buy cheap funnels (for changing oil, or cooking, etc.) that have an outside diameter that cannot fit into the pipe. Cut enough off the small end of the funnel so that the snake could fit through it easily, but not much more. With duct tape, tape the funnels to the pipe so that the skinny ends are sticking into the inside of the pipe.

Lay the trap around the base boards or other places you think the snake will go. The snake will crawl in, but will not be intelligent enough to back up and lift its head to find its way back out. This is kind of like a lobster trap for snakes! Please check often so that you don’t sentence the snake to a slow death.” ~ Lesa Scheifele

“I use Snake-Away that I get at ACE Hardware and now I find it in most farm stores. Snake Away was invented by a researcher who found that the skin on a snake’s belly is extremely sensitive to a certain ‘feel’ and so that’s what’s in Snake Away and a snake WILL NOT CROSS A LINE OF THAT MATERIAL. Also, it’s safe for the hen’s.

The drawback is that if there is too much litter on the floor of the henhouse it so covers the feel of the product that snakes will cross it, so the henhouse floor must be kept free of litter. Also, the line must be sprinkled so as to eliminate access to the nest boxes.” ~ Yvonne (By the way Yvonne, we’ll be talking about brooding next week and I’ll try to address your question – WC)

“Hi Duncan and Wendy, I really enjoy your newsletter, and have passed it on! In reading this week’s newsletter, I looked at the question regarding snakes, and the comments on mice. An old farmer showed me a trick for mouse bait-which I guess would work for snake bait.

You use a 90mm or 3″ plastic pipe, have 2 lengths, and insert them either side of a ‘T’ piece with a screw on lid. Unscrew the lid, put in the bait and screw the lid back on. The mice and rats will walk through the pipe and eat the bait and leave, but your adult chickens cannot fit into the pipe to eat the bait.

You can put this inside or outside, as the bait will stay dry as long as the lid is on. One warning though, you have to be careful if you pick up the pipe as the bait will slide out the end. I always put a plastic bag around the end and then tip it up to clean out mouse dropping and sometimes dead mice.

The other most effective mouse trap I have found is one that is mesh wire on the outside and a cone of straight wires in the centre. The mice can climb in, but not out. The worst bit about it is the mice are still alive, so I dunk the whole trap in a deep enough bucket of water to drown them straight away. It doesn’t sound nice, but it is effective! I have caught 6 mice in this trap at once. Thanks,” ~ Jane, Melbourne, Australia

Last week I answered a question from Bill who was having problems with predators, namely a bobcat, getting to his poultry. Since that time, we’ve had some responses from readers with recommendations for Bill. Since predators are a problem for many of us, I thought I’d share a few of those responses in the hopes that they will help not only Bill but many readers who have predator issues. Thanks to all of you who wrote in.

“There is a breed of dog that Bill may want to research, the Anatolian Karabash (Anatolian Shepherd} is being used in Africa to protect herds of goats and sheep in villages against cheetah. Although cheetah have a stronger sense of self preservation than a bobcat and are more likely to run from a large barking dog, this is a breed that has been protecting flocks against wild cats, wolves etc for many years and would lay down its life to protect its charges.” ~ Morna Clark (more…)

“I want to get a puppy, of a breed known for protecting livestock. I want to take it to training camp. I want the breed to preferably have short hair but be able to withstand winter weather outside in Texas… a large breed of dog that will be able to fend off a Bobcat or a Raccoon. So, what information do you have for me regarding this quandary? Please help.” ~ Bill Bush

(NOTE: Initial Question Heavily Edited For Lengthens Sake – The Primary Concern Was The Bobcat…)

Bill, thanks for the question and I’m so sorry you’re having predator problems.

I’m not an expert on breeds of dog nor am I a veterinarian but I happen to know one very well. He is also an avid hunter and is knowledgeable on the use of dogs in hunting, mountain lions in particular. This veterinarian seemed like the best resource for your question so I’ll share some of the things he told me.

In his opinion, there is not a particular breed of dog that would have the ability to kill a bobcat.

Even well trained, large dogs will be severely wounded, if not killed by an animal of that kind. Obviously a large dog would fare better than a small one though.

You must remember that we are talking about domesticated dogs versus a wild animal that is seeking food. No mater how large the dog, it’s skin is only so thick and is vulnerable to being ripped up by the bobcat if confronted. (more…)

“Any suggestions on dealing with rats in the hen house?” ~ Mary Ann Westendorf

Hi Mary Anne, thanks for the question.

Here’s the thing about rodents, they don’t have any bones. The frame of a rodent is supported rather by cartilage. This allows the rodent to fit into spaces we would never assume they would be able to gain access.

Did you know that a rat can compress itself to fit through an opening only ½ inch wide? A mouse can fit through a space of only ¼ inch! Obviously traditional chicken wire will not keep a rodent out of the hen house.

If the rodents are tunneling under you have a couple of options;

You could line the bottom of the coop with hardware cloth or heavy metal screening. Be sure to cover the hardware cloth with a good layer of dirt or liter material. (more…)